Cutting the box bottoms

The fitting of the boxes to cill is another departure from traditional designs, where the pulley stiles are set in to the cill and wedged. Thsi is point that is most likely to rot so I'm butt jointing with screws from underneath. Apparently this is common Scandinavian practice and I can see the benefits in theory.

The butting up needs to be accurate, for a good joint and to keep the frame straight.

First to get the angle on the pulley stile. I tried to get the angle from cill. Then cut with the mitre saw. Notice, I said tried.....

I then used the angled ends to set the mitre saw to cut the bottom of the outside lining.

So I thought I could cut it all nice, accurate and neat.

If I had a quality mitre saw this should have worked. The one I've got is OK for floor boards etc. but I've decided not stable enough for this kind job.

Plan B. Another little jig

Using a trimming off the end of the cill this jig works this way round for the outside lining and at 90 degrees against the cross fence to trim the pulley stiles.
I trimmed the inside lining on the table as well, so all the bottoms of the boxes are bang on.

Groove for parting beads

First mark up which edges are going to be the outside edges. With these edges against the fence rout the grooves. As I've not got a 8mm bit I needed two cuts with my 6.35mm.

Pulley stiles and top rail , cut 1 (half top rail minus 4mm). Cut 2. move the fence to make an 8mm slot. Using the fence with the extra bit added that runs on the rebate ensures the grooves will line up.

Bed time

Flatening a new piece

I've just mentioned the top rail of frame. The piece I had planed up perfectly to size, on closer inspection had a twist in it. Rather than try and work round it I picked another piece of rough sawn of the shelf. "It'll not take two minutes to plane up".

This had a twist in it as well, But with 25mm to plane down to 22mm I could use it. Hence another simple jig. I found another length that was flat and skimmed it smooth in the thicknesser. Made a couple of really thin long wedges on the bench saw.

Screwed the new piece on to the flat board, from the back, just at the ends and supported the twisted up sides with the wedges. Then sent the whole lot through the thicknesser.

Result one flat face. Flipped over and faced the other side, hence two flat sides.