Pulley Stile Tops

To make sure the frame will fit the sashes, first check what the two sashes add up to. Rather than just rely on what they should be, why not glue the sashes up and work empirically.

A lot of things to remember from this picture.

1. I planed up two pieces square and flat and bolted them on the router table top. This gives me a flat frame to assemble the sashes on.

2. My cheap " Forged Steel" sash cramps are cheap for a reason, the adjustable back stops don't stay square to bar. Hence twist the rail when clamping. I need to drill, tap and put screws in to stop the movement. Or pack out with flat bladed screw drivers like I did this time.

3. Next time I'll chamfer the end of tenons so they don't push too much of the glue out of mortises.

4. After clamping pressure to close up joints, back off so the stiles aren't bent. Then check they're square.

5. Fox wedges do seem to work. Applying compression but without moving the joint

6. I can assemble and clamp up quick enough to work with PU adhesive.

(Time Travel - Round of the edges I can at before assembly - at the same time as the otside lining, cill and top lining rail, but first know the height, Oh No! chicken and egg time loop. Dr. please help?)

With the sashes glued up I clamped them as they'll be when closed and measured them. Then went back to the paper calculations. I'm glad I checked as I'd not accounted for a rebate on the bottom of the BS Bottom rail (Note: adjust cut list). Apart from that I was only about 1mm out. I'm happy with that.

Adding a 2mm clearance I then knew the height of pulley stile. These then needed cutting with a 5mm tongue added on.

To make sure they both ended up the same height I clamped them together with the bottom ends together. Then the top ends are machined square leaving the tongues.